“Cuba is a fusion.” With this powerful metaphor, renowned anthropologist Fernando Ortiz described the complex formation of Cuban identity and culture. One of the earliest intellectuals to recognize the central role of African heritage in shaping the nation, Ortiz identified three spheres where this influence is most visible: art, religion, and collective emotion.
Today, Afro-Cuban cultural expressions are increasingly visible across the island. But where should travelers go to experience the rich universe of religious practices and popular deities that remain essential symbols of Cuban identity? PanamericanWorld highlights four key sites to explore what Ortiz once called “one of the most mixed peoples of all lineages.”
THE HAMEL ALLEY (EL CALLEJÓN DE HAMEL)
Hamel Alley is one of Havana’s most vibrant and frequently visited cultural spaces. Sundays are the best time to visit, when local residents—often dressed as ancient gods from the Yoruba pantheon, the orishas—take to the streets, and the sound of drums fills the air.
The entrance to the alley, built with stacked stones, symbolizes the enduring presence of God and the orishas. According to popular belief, this is a sacred space where warrior deities such as Elegguá, Oggún, Oshosi, and Oshún are honored.
Inside, visitors are immersed in a striking explosion of color. Buildings and surrounding walls are painted with vivid motifs representing Afro-Cuban culture. The facades feature phrases, poems, and reflections from prominent Cuban figures such as Fernando Ortiz, José Martí, and Salvador González Escalona—the sculptor and visionary behind the project.
The alley also showcases installations made from recycled and industrial materials, with a notable presence of metals associated with the orisha Oggún. Cuban Santería’s syncretic nature is evident throughout, with representations of Catholic saints intertwined with Yoruba deities, and even a space dedicated to Palo Monte, a religion of Congolese origin.
One of the most popular spots is the throne of Shangó, where visitors take photos and ask the orisha for protection, prosperity, and spiritual balance.
It is precisely this coexistence of symbols that defines the alley: a mannequin representing an African deity may stand beside a quote from The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, just steps away from a bust of Cuban national hero José Martí.
THE SAINT LAZARUS SANCTUARY IN EL RINCÓN
Located west of Santiago de Las Vegas, on Havana’s southern outskirts, the town of El Rincón is home to one of Cuba’s most revered religious sites: the Sanctuary of Saint Lazarus.
The sanctuary includes a Catholic church where visitors can find altars dedicated to figures such as Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre, the Immaculate Conception, the Virgin of Regla, and Saint Barbara. Thousands of Cubans come here seeking healing, relief, and spiritual support. The site gained global attention when Pope John Paul II visited it during his historic trip to Cuba in February 1998.
El Rincón is also a powerful example of religious syncretism. During colonial times, enslaved Africans were prohibited from practicing their traditional religions and were forced to adopt Christianity. In response, they gradually identified their Yoruba deities with Catholic saints.
As a result, Saint Lazarus became associated with Babalú Ayé, an orisha linked to illness and healing. Both figures share similar imagery: an elderly man leaning on crutches, often accompanied by dogs licking his wounds.
Every year on December 17, thousands of devotees make a pilgrimage to El Rincón to honor both Saint Lazarus and Babalú Ayé. The scenes are striking—some walk in silence, others crawl on the ground, while many carry chains or heavy stones tied to their bodies as acts of devotion and sacrifice.
HEMP DRUM IN PALMIRA
The town of Palmira, located just 10 kilometers from Cienfuegos in central-southern Cuba, is known for preserving Afro-Cuban religious traditions with remarkable intensity. These practices are organized in “societies,” many of which have existed for more than a century. Among the most prominent are the El Cristo Society, the San Roque Society, and the Saint Barbara Society.
Palmira’s religious festivities, particularly those honoring the orishas, have gained international recognition. Central to these celebrations are the powerful rhythms of stick or hemp drums, which define the region’s musical identity.
The most important Yoruba-inspired celebration takes place on December 4, in honor of Saint Barbara, who—through syncretism—is identified with Shangó, the orisha of thunder, lightning, fire, dance, and music.
On that day, according to local television station Perlavisión, the image of the saint is carried through the streets on the shoulders of devotees, passing by other religious societies such as San Roque and El Cristo. Large crowds gather to follow the procession, moving to the rhythm of drums and chants. Red—the color associated with Shangó—dominates clothing, and participants arrive from across Cuba and abroad.
Another major event is the Bembé Festival, where drums, chants, and dance come together in a vibrant display of Afro-Cuban spirituality and cultural continuity.
With information from Y. Menéndez
Photo of the portrait: Depositphotos
